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I use popsicle sticks to help mix it up.
They are also useful when pouring the resin into the mold. You
can pour down the stick into the opening. It allows you to aim
the stream better. |
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Here's the mold filled with resin. I use a rubber
band to hold the mold together. You don't want the rubber band
too tight or it will distort the mold. The registration
"holes" you created when you made the mold should help hold the mold
together. Unlike custom injection molding, this mold is not
under any pressure from the resin. This is also a good time
to tap the mold a few times to get any bubbles to raise to the
surface. If you have any undercuts in your mold you may have
to tip it back and forth a few times as well. You will learn
real fast where your mold can trap air. For a few of my molds
I pour with the mold setting at an angle. Then I set it
upright. This prevents the air from being trapped while
pouring. |
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Allow the resin to set the required time.
With the resin I use, sets in about 10 minutes, but I wait 20-30
minutes before I take the part out of the mold. |
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Here's the finished part. The sprue needs
to be trimmed off and in this case, the hair needs to be painted. |
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Now here are a few tips is you find you are
getting small bubbles in your cast parts. The most expensive
solution (and best) is to get yourself a paint pressure tank.
These are used by professional painters but are available at Harbor
Freight. Molding under pressure will compress any air bubbles
to a much smaller size.
You'll need an air compressor as well. You want to place
your mold into the tank as soon as you have poured it. Tighten
the top and apply at least 25 PSI. |
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A much cheaper solution, that works pretty well
is to dust your mold with talc-based baby powder. You don't
want much, just a small bit sprinkled into the mold and the gently
blow out the extra. You'll want to wait until your mold
release has completely dried or even try it in place of your mold
release.
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